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Diamond shapes can be divided into 2 groups, which are round and non-round (or it can also be called fancy cut or fancy shaped diamond). Fancy cuts come in so many different shapes. The most popular fancy cut diamonds are probably princess cut and heart shaped diamonds.

It is worthwhile to know that there are some important facts about how to choose fancy cut diamonds. First, there is no cutting grade for fancy cut diamond . You will only see grading of polishing and symmetry; thus, the highest score for this type of diamonds will be 2EX (not 3EX as in round diamonds).

Due to its wide variety of shapes, it is almost impossible to have one standard set of cutting grade for all non-round shapes. GIA, the most reputable diamond laboratory in the world, has recommended that cutting is rather subjective. For example, a heart-shaped diamond can be chubby, long heart, or wide heart and it really depends on how a person feels about such shape and overall  apprearances. In round diamonds, all cutting grades are related to scienticfic numbers that help diamond appraisers do the work easily, which is not the case for fancy cut diamonds.

However, we have some guidelines to share with you here to help you buy a fancy cut diamond. It should be noted that these guidelines will also have an effect on prices as well.

1. Length to Width Ratio:  Each Jeweller has different or preferred ratio of its own for each shape. So it is literally your choice, as it is subjective, how you feel about that stone you see. If you like it, then that is your ratio. And there is no right or wrong about it. However, some ratios are popular and that might have some effects on the price. This is to say that it is strongly recommended that you get to see the actual stones before you buy.

2. Bow Tie Effect In the long shape diamonds, such as marquise – oval – pear shape, there is a Bow Tie effect. It is a black shadow in the middle shaped like a bow tie. We recommend to look for a mild one, not very obvious. This bow tie effect has a close relationships with the length-to-width ratio, the longer the ratio, the bow tie will fade a little more.

3. Symmetry It is suggested to check the symmetry of the both side, as shown in the pictures below:

3. Total Depth Not too deep. as the diamond will be a small face and dark. You can notice from the fact that usually long shape fancy cut diamonds will look quite bigger than the round diamond of the same weight. It that fancy shape diamond looks almost the same size as the round diamond of the same weight, then it indicates that that fancy shape diamond could be too deep as in its total depth.

And of course, don’t forget to look for the overall apprearances and fire.

Fancy cut diamonds can hide the yellow tint quite well, so we can go for a lower color like G, H and still look quite colorless. Another compelling reason about fancy shape diamonds is that its price is very much more affordable. Fancy shaped diamonds are, therefore, good options for all diamond lovers.

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	Written by Sornsida Y. Chanonprapa (G.D. GIA 2015)
	Diamond Nerd จากสถาบัน GIA ศึกษาเรียนรู้ หัด grading เพชรมาโดยเฉพาะ บวกกับพื้นฐานเป็นลูกช่างทอง มีประสบการณ์ทำงานใน Field จิวเวลรี่มากว่า 20ปี จึงอยากใช้พื้นที่นี้แบ่งปันความรู้และประสบการณ์กับทุกคนค่ะ